Recently, The Textile Arts Council of the De Young museum hosted a lecture on Madame Vionnet by Sandra Ericcson, The Center for Pattern Design. The free event was an opportunity to learn some cutting and fitting techniques, but also to view construction details up close and personal. Well worth the trip.
I'm not going into a lot of detail here about history and context, but I'm going to lay out Sandra's key points and interesting related tidbits.
6 Principles of Elegant Cutting
A. The Goal: Simple and Integrated
1. Simple = Achieving the most from the least
2. Integrated = Relating the body and the bias
Principle 1: Cut Geometrically
A. Cut on the Straight, Worn on the Bias
1. Square
2. 4 Square
3. Quadrant
4. Barrel Cut
B. Cut on the Bias, Worn on the Bias
C. Cut on the Cross Grain, Worn on the Bias
Principle 2: Weight Creates Fit and Form
A. Fabric = rayon, silk, wool, double crepe, any crepes, velvet, heavy metallic lame
1. Balanced thread count
2. Loose Weave = not Synthetics
3. Elasticity = Twisted Yarn
4. Collapse = Less Friction
5. Torque = Dimensional Stability
6. Weight
7. Width
B. Design
1. Length
2. Volume
3. Trim
Principle 3: Any part can extend into Twists, Loops, Folds or Ties
Principle 4: Design should Integrate the Closure
Principle 5: Decorative Details Create Silhouette, Fit and Finish
Principle 6: Use Inserts for Specific Shaping
Principle 7: The Cut is All
A. Very simple finishing - minimize any visible bumps or puckers
1. Overcast seam edges
2. Self facing
3. Hong Kong Edges
B. Built in Flexibility
1. Size
i. A stouter body at a particular height = dress is shorter.
ii. A thin body at the same height = dress is longer.
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