Closeup of Cowgirl Creamery Devil's Gulch, their winter seasonal. Draeger's sold it to me in this condition, with a white fur beginning to grow on the top, the kind I would rather cultivate myself. By all indications this is the natural mold for this type of cheese, but it put me off. The flavor is grassy with a yellow paste and a white rind covered in hot pepper flakes, similar to their St. Pat, which I am also not a huge fan of either. I find the pepper overbearing on this light, somewhat tasteless cheese with its musty aroma and crumbly rubbery texture unpleasant, but to be sure, I might not have gotten such a great example. I might return it...

Much better was the Delice D'Argental, unfortunately packed in cling film. Creamily resilient, fatty and luxuriously textured, dense on the tongue and altogether quite rich. The flavor was slightly tangy and had a strong saltiness. Unfortunately under serving temp, this cheese let out a whiff of ammonia and readily collapsed. Not enough to be a deal breaker, but frankly I'm a little tired of this lack of care from the local shippers and affineurs, doing the consumer and cheese maker no favors.