A sometimes overly whimsical but always informative portrait of American sushi by Trevor Corson. Freehanded in his dramatization of early cross pollination between Los Angeles culinary history and Japanese tradition, Corson's book offers tidbits of wisdom both gustatory and trivial. For instance, the science behind the flavors of fish in different development stages is demystified, while a Mack Daddy's frippery is likened to the glittering flick of a mackerel fins.

Growing up in 1980's LA, the scenes described in the book are wonderfully familiar (eating for the first time at a conveyor belt sushi joint in J-Town), but the knowledge (that the advent of conveyors allowed Japanese women to finally eat sushi alone) is refreshingly new. Mostly, this book makes me hanker for fresh Tai and a trip to Tsujiki Market.