Mission Chinese Food

By Lionina - 3:48 PM

Camera malfunction, but definitely not food malfunction at Mission Street Chinese Food. Pork belly, deep fried Filipino style, with traditional tea smoked eggs and flat rice noodle rolls that usually are served at dim sum.

Mission Chinese is queer place, both hipster and humdrum. The 90's rap on rotation and the lantern lit dragon on the ceiling, recalls some seedier sections of Asia, and the menu mixes takeout standards with some beloved but lesser known favorites that "non-asians" dont typically order or even see. Chef likes to tinker and his dishes reflect that sense of whimsy, so the food here is inconsistent from visit to visit - by that I mean, mixing things up, rather than taking a downturn. There is tender, oh so tender, brisket rivaling the best that Oakland has to offer, melty fat infused with woodsmoke and tempered with Mexican Coke bbq sauce. A variety of tart pickles that recall Chinese street fare and Korean pan chan, make the best accompaniment. Then theres a hodgepodge of pan Chinese references for the main courses, from Lion's Head Meatball Ramen, where the meatball is actually a twist on the pungent stinky fish patty, to Mapo tofu, hot on all kinds of levels, fiery, searingly, and numbingly. Surprisingly, the Salt Cod Fried Rice plays it safe but offers a soft landing to all the bigger flavors on the menu. This flip flop of textures and tasting profiles is what defines Mission Chinese Food, where fusion comes correct, and with a low price tag. Get in line!

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